Man on the Street: "More men now dress up than 20 years ago, and I think that's good"
|All photos by Ward Rubrecht|
Occupation: I run an online magazine for classic men's clothing called The Gentleman's Gazette.
Man on the Street: "You don't want to read Kant while wearing Aeropostale"
Man on the Street: "Invest in classic items. What was fashionable when I was born can be worn today."
Man on the Street: "Style is an extension of one's spiritual well-being."
The flannel suit is by mytailor.com; the tie is by Fort Belvedere, and is ancient madder silk; and the boutonniere is from there, too. The pocket square is linen. The shoes are black Oxford half-brogues from North Hampton, England. Italian houndstooth socks. Shirt made to measure from Estonia.
How did you arrive at your aesthetic?
I started to get interested in clothing when I was 15 years old. I'm originally from Europe, so I had the chance to travel to various tailors and shoemakers there. And then I started looking into men's fashion magazines, and I was able to build a huge menswear library and archive of more than 150,000 pictures starting from the 1900s all the way up to the 1960s.
In classic men's clothing terms, the high times were the 1930s. People generally consider it the most elegant period. They had lots of parties and wore tailcoats. After the war, people wanted to party and look good and not think about the war. So I mix 1930s style with my interpretation.
What's something you really don't like about modern men's fashion?
I always think here that women are much better dressed than men. There's a huge discrepancy. I don't like seeing a woman who's nicely dressed with a man wearing shorts and flip flops. That bothers me.
At work, sometimes people think they can dress down and it looks really sloppy. I don't like that.
I really like the fact that we're seeing more and more bowties. More men now dress up than 20 years ago, and I think that's good.
Many men here have a more rugged-luxury style: Pendleton and Woolrich shirts with button-down collars, in summer madras, in winter flannel shirts, skinny ties with tie bars, quality denim, Red Wing boots. I think it's good in the sense that people look more for quality and how it's made, how it's sourced. That's great. Of course, that's often abused. There's a place in town where they say it's made in the U.S., but many of the fabrics are made in China. Technically, that's not even allowed, but it happens.
If someone wanted to pursue your aesthetic locally, where would they start?
It's difficult. Martin Patrick 3 has some things, but it's more modern. Some people go to Heimi's Haberdashery. But I'm at a different level. For example, the ties I have, I focus on very particular things. This tie, I looked for a specific interlining because I wanted a slim knot, and it's hand rolled and hand tipped. That's harder to find here.