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City Pages - Twin Cities Eater

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Introducing A la Carte

Filed under: Food

When I began chatting with City Pages about food writing, I was concerned that my own style of dining (which leans toward "humble" — some of my favorite meals have involved beer-boiled bratwurst, authentic tacos, or old-school slices of pizza) might not click in a metropolis where the high-end restaurants bump so confidently up against a national scene.

So when the word came down that my former Minnesota Monthly colleague Rachel Hutton was going to take on the haute cuisine stuff via The Dish — leaving me free to pounce on little neighborhood eateries and ethnic holes-in-the-wall — I flipped out. This new column, named A la Carte, was a perfect fit. I knew Rachel, and I knew her writing — she would be the paper's world-class fancy-pants ninja, freeing me up to do what I really dig.

I struggle (emphasis on struggle) to write about food in a way that is clear and free of pretense. My concerns typically run like this: Is this food delicious? Is this food delicious for the money I'm paying? Is this food delicious in some kind of new way?

So when you read "A la Carte," you're not going to get much sensual purple prose, or references to big-name chefs. (Although, to be fair to Rachel, she often beat selected bits of purple prose out of my MNMO stuff, so you won't see much of it in her column, either.)

What you will get, I hope, is writing that takes you somewhere new, gets you out of your neighborhood and/or comfort zone, and occasionally cracks you up. You'll get writing that is a critical celebration of that which can get overlooked in the bold-faced name / big restaurant group-driven food coverage that, necessarily, can sometimes dominate the media discourse.

And I'm going to shoot for honest writing, and look for your comments to keep me on the straight and narrow. I have biases as a diner, and if I'm not exposing them to you in my prose, I hope to be correcting for them behind the scenes. I don't want "A La Carte" to be an uncritical cheerleader; while I've had some life-changing meals in neighborhood restaurants, I've also had some crummy ones, and I won't ever knowingly peddle you a false bill of goods just because it makes a good story.

In conclusion, and with real feeling: Please — please, please, please — email me (jim@flakmag.com) with your ideas. This column will not succeed unless I'm able to keep an ear to the ground and ferret out the hidden gems that this city conceals and treasures by the dozen. If you're a chef and you've changed your menu, email me. If you're a diner with a favorite little place — or even just a favorite appetizer, or dessert somewhere — email me. If you're a purveyor offering something special that's being overlooked, email me. If you're a waiter or waitress, a PR flack, a talented home cook, whatever — email me.

And, when in doubt, eat somewhere new.

Posted by James Norton at February 20, 2008 11:04 AM

« The Dish on Dish | Main | Chef Shack Preview »

Comments

Congrats on the first piece James. Have you ever had the "dago, egg, and cheese" at Dusty's in the NE? The deliciousness makes up for the politically incorrect name.

Posted by: brian at February 20, 2008 2:05 PM

At some point, could you demystify "Skyway Sushi"? Not a particular place, but the phenomenon. I guess that also covers "Grocery Store Sushi." Is this real sushi? What is the difference between this cheaper "to go" version and "real" sushi?

Congrats on the column. Sounds like you'll be covering my type of places!

Posted by: Steve B at February 21, 2008 11:24 AM

Keep the ideas coming, guys. Pearson's, Skyway sushi, Dusty's... they'll all go into the slush pile.

And Steve, a subjective answer to your question -- in this part of the country, if you're going to eat ocean seafood, bigger/more expensive places tend to equal better food, just in terms of having access to the freshest and highest-quality stuff. The chef at Oceanaire is on the phone each morning with fishermen in the Pacific; probably less true at, say, Trader Joe's or random sushi place in the skyway.

That said, I've had sushi in the skyway and it wasn't a disaster. Wasn't good, per se, but wasn't a disaster.

Posted by: James Norton at February 21, 2008 11:34 AM

I like buffalo wings...

Posted by: Helm Matthews at February 21, 2008 3:04 PM

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