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In Defense of Midwestern Road Food

Filed under: Road Trip

Yesterday, a commenter named "East Coast Doug" took a moment to savage my short endorsement of the Target Bluff German Haus. He offered no indication of having been to the restaurant, and, in essence, said my views were invalid because I had kind things to say about Culver's and the Norske Nook. He then offered the opinion that Midwestern highway restaurants weren't worth patronizing.

This kind of crap gets my blood up. The arrogance — pure, unmitigated, ignorant arrogance — of trying to dismiss an entire region's cuisine based on a couple of bad experiences is absolutely mind-blowing.

And while I could choose to chuckle quietly to myself about the experiences this guy and his fellow-travelers will miss because of the blinders they're wearing, I'd rather deal with it head on.

Like the judging at a state fair, you need to be able to assess things within their class. Culver's doesn't compare to Gramercy Tavern or Chez Panisse, it's true. But within the class of "fast food" it does exceptionally well, in my opinion — the average quality of food and service at Culver's is far and away better than the national chains, and stacks up well against even foodie-worshipped chains like In-n-Out. (Allowed to choose between the two on a regular basis, I'd probably switch off; Culver's for the frozen custard, In-n-Out for the burgers.)

It's true that on the East Coast you're going to find some great, ancient, world-class pizzerias. Go far enough north, and you'll get places that'll serve lobster rolls that'll knock your socks off. Far enough south, and you'll find places that will do fantastic crab. Etc., etc., and let's not forget New York City bagels. I certainly can't.

So when I say the farmstead sausages, master-made cheeses, Friday fish fries, draft beers and homemade pies of the Midwest stack up, I don't say it lightly. If you love food, you can be happy out East, and you can be happy here. It's just a matter of knowing the terrain and understanding what to expect.

I guess, in retrospect, I'm not actually angry with "East Coast Doug" and the other miserable East Coast exiles who suffer every day because they can't find a decent meal out here; I feel kind of sorry for them. There's an art to finding a good meal, and if you practice it diligently, you'll be surprised at just how many are available, regardless of what part of the country you're in.

Posted by James Norton at March 26, 2008 6:33 PM

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Comments

Dear James,

I didn't critize your opinion of the Target Bluff German Haus. Because I've never dined there. I liked the description of the Bratwurst - light in color - it may be Viesswurst (veal sausage). Additionally Spaten is a good beer.

I've lived in the Midwest for 25 yrs - I consider myself a midwesterner. When I say that the midwest doesn't have a priority on all around good food - it's not about arrogance, nor is it 'there is better than here'. It's a personal observation, and I wish it was not so.

Keep mining and finding the gems.

Didn't intend to be a PITA!


Posted by: East Coast Doug at March 26, 2008 8:25 PM

Well said, and no worries. PITA — not at all. You got my blood up (and Brian's!) about local food, and that makes for some good discussion. The never-ending war of ideas is what the Web's all about...

Respectfully yours,

Jim

Posted by: James Norton at March 26, 2008 9:09 PM

Having traversed the I- 94 corridor, I must say there are not a lot of options. In addition to the gems mentioned, I love 1) Taco John's and 2) gas station "snack packs" with Carr valley cheese curds and local sausage pieces.

Posted by: Tuck at March 27, 2008 10:15 AM

Jim, don't even think about mourning the egg mcmuffin creator!

(Which, incidentally, is one of my go-to road trip breakfast food on Wis. 29--that is if I can make it to Stanley before requiring coffee and sustenance.)

I hope City Pages doesn't make you retract your review of Porky's.

Posted by: brian at March 27, 2008 12:07 PM

Jim,

I have a good idea about a column - send an email. I couldn't find yours on this site.

Posted by: East Coast Doug at March 29, 2008 8:44 PM

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