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June 2008
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Pick This: Radishes

Filed under: Recipes

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You don't like radishes, do you? Until recently, I didn't care much for them either, as my first memorable experience with them didn't make a great impression. I was a kid; my dad picked a radish from the garden, wiped the dirt off on the leg of his blue jeans, and handed it over. Its bite burned my mouth and bits of dirt gritted in my teeth. I didn't like radishes.

Years later, I gave radishes a second chance. Young ones, planted in the spring, that grew quickly and were harvested early, tasted crisp and juicy, with just a bit of heat. In The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper, I found what I think is the best way to eat them:

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Belgian Beer Bar Tartine
Serves 1

1 large slice multigrain country bread, cut about 1/2 inch thick
2 to 3 ounces fresh cheese (I prefer the mustiness of sheep's cheese, like Miti Crema, to the tanginess of goat's cheese, but the recipe says even cream cheese would do in a pinch)
1 or 2 whole scallions, thin sliced
3 radishes, think sliced
coarse salt

1. Spread the bread with the cheese. Press the scalion slices into the cheese, than fan the radishes over them. Sprinkle wtih coarse salt.

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Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 30, 2008 9:13 AM | Comments (5)

 

I Can't Believe It's Not Paint Thinner Vol. 3

Filed under: I Can't Believe It's Not Paint Thinner

To many indigenous North American cultures, the Thunderbird is mythical creature, a bird of unparalleled strength. Legend had it that the bird was so powerful, its wings flapping caused the thunder. To us, it's a strong white wine that hopefully won't cause any thunder in our intestines. Its label calls it 'The American Classic.'

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Jeff Guntzel: It looks like urine of a very well hydrated person.

Everybody takes a drink.

Jessica Armbruster: This is hands down the worst.

Nate Patrin: I feel like I was punched in the face with a Greyhound bus depot.

Ward Rubrecht: This is fine. It's just bad red... Er... white wine.

JG: I don't think I can have any more.

JA: I just broke my flip flop.

Ben Palosaari: I feel something weird in my head, like it's rushing into my eyeballs.

JA: Didn't they used to market this to Europeans? 'Try drinking this, fuckers!'

JG: I'm going to dump this on the sponge in the kitchen and see it makes it smell any better.

WR: You guys are pussies.

BP: The taste in your nose afterward... Like syrup or something. Don't exhale it while swallowing... It's the worst.

NP: I'll do it. (gags)

WR: you guys are fat fucking wusses. And you clearly don't have a sweet tooth.

JA: It's white so it should be paired with chicken or seafood.

NP: OK, so McNuggets or Filet-o-Fish.

WR: MMMMMMMMM

BP: You're fucked up... That is just sick... Do you want more?

WR: No.

BP: Oh, you like it, but you don't want more?

WR: I'll just start drinking the Old Crow whiskey in my backpack.

Nate leaves, and returns with cake.

Ward leaves, returns with a flask, takes pull.

Thunderbird "citrus wine with natural flavors" came in a 750 ml bottle and cost $4.99


Posted by Ben Palosaari at June 27, 2008 3:48 PM | Comments (2)

 

Your Dish Here

Filed under: Events

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It's a rare soul who inspires a restaurant to name a dish in his honor--consider the force of personality behind the Karlen's Karma coffee drink at Sebastian Joe's or the "Wheels" Whelan cheese plate at O'Donovan's. But it's a good cook who will convice the Bloomington ChopHouse to put his or her side dish on their menu. The new upscale steak and seafood spot, which is located in the Hilton in Bloomington, will be accepting entries online through Friday, July 18. Word is that executive chef Chris Hammer is looking for recipes that represent Minnesota and use local ingredients. Ladies and gentlemen, light your burners!


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Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 27, 2008 9:03 AM | Comments (2)

 

Drink of the Week: Wondrous Punch

Filed under: Drink of the Week

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A few weeks ago I set out to write about the Wondrous Punch, the signature drink at the Red Dragon in Uptown. But, one drink in to the small fishbowl sized glass of orange and yellow wonder, I got so smashed, I forgot everything I learned.

I forgot what the waitress told me was in the drink and, to make matters worse, I lost my balance coming out of the restroom, toppled over and somehow lost the napkin on which I had scribbled my notes.

Think that’s bad? That very same night, my friend and drinking connoisseur, in a moment of pure self indulgence, braved not one but two of the commanding cocktails.

Afterwards, she insisted on wearing her bike helmet in the car as another, sober friend, drove her home. He couldn’t help but laugh. Despite her extra precautions to stay safe, she forgot to put on her seatbelt.

Like a college freshman doing the walk of shame, the next day I did what I had to. I picked up my phone and called the restaurant detailing my dilemma. How else would I write a blog without knowing anything about the drink? The man who answered the phone laughed at my hazy memory of the evening.

"That's pretty much it what it does," he said. "It’s pretty potent."

Tell that to the girl wearing her helmet in the car.

Oh, and for the record, here's the recipe:

-One Shot Bacardi Gold
-One Shot Bacardi White
-One Shot Myers rum
-One shot of Bacardi 151
-A small splash of orange pineapple juice
-A small splash of sweet and sour mix
-A pinch of grenadine.

Posted by Beth Walton at June 27, 2008 3:37 AM | Comments (4)

 

First Look: Kindee Thai

Filed under: Restaurants

Sticking with this week's theme of writing mixed reviews of new restaurants that may or may not enrage the readers of this blog, a few brief words about the Mill District's Kindee Thai restaurant: If you're going to the Guthrie, and you generally view Thai food as a little too challenging, this is exactly the right place for you to eat dinner. This newly opened eatery serves a handful of Thai favorites with all the complicated musky / earthy / vexing notes helpfully edited out, resulting in a sweet + spicy duality that is both easy to comprehend and consume. The decor is pleasant (chic, even — it feels like Brooklyn, in the new, hip sense of the word) and the staff is kind and attentive.

If, however, you are not visiting the Guthrie and/or you like your Thai food with a depth and power that can sometimes be overwhelming, three alternative ideas to consider: Ruam Mit Thai. Amazing Thailand. True Thai.

Posted by James Norton at June 26, 2008 12:39 AM | Comments (2)

 

Taste of Summer: Sprecher Root Beer

Filed under: Brews, Etc.

Kudos to Sprecher Brewing, of Glendale WI (just north of Milwaukee), whose root beer took top honors in a tasting panel conducted by several New York Times food writers.

I hadn't had Sprecher's root beer in a while, so I picked up a celebratory four-pack at Lunds (it's also available here) Just for fun, I blind-tasted it against a brew I wasn't sure was on the Times' radar--one made by James Page, which is based on the recipe used by Dorothy Molter (the BWCA's last permanent resident, also known as the "root beer lady").

I had a slight preference for the Sprecher's: it has a creamier head, spicier ("rootier"?) flavor, and a bit more carbonation--though I could have used even more of all three variables--and a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

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Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 25, 2008 11:46 PM | Comments (0)

 

Make it a date: 3 Squares, Laredo's, and Lola's Lakehouse

Filed under: Make it a date

With gas prices this high, it seems extravagant to drive to the western suburbs just dine. But adding a second stop can help justify the trip.

1. 3 Squares: Go shopping in Maple Grove
Poised to overtake the Mall of America in terms of retail square footage--nearly 6 million square feet--Maple Grove is a big box and chain shoppers' paradise.

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2. Laredo's: Make a splash at the St. Louis Park Aquatic Center
All inhibitions about feeling too old for a water park will wash away as soon as you and your friends pile on a 3-person innertube and race down the four-story waterslides at the Aquatic Center.

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3. Lola's Lakehouse: Visit the MN Landscape Arboretum in Chanhassen
With more than 1,000 acres of gardens, landscapes, and natural areas, plus 12.5 miles of paths, there's no shortage of grand greenery at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum. Irises and peonies are now in full bloom (call the "bloom line" at 952-443-1400 Ext. 5010 for more info). The arboretum also offers classes--J.D. Fratzke, chef of the Strip Club, teaches this Thursday evening (call 952-443-1422 to register). Admission is free on Thursday nights after 4:30 p.m.

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**If you'd like to stay up to date on the latest food news, sign up for our free weekly e-newsletter, "The Hot Dish." Just click here to sign up.

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 25, 2008 12:07 AM | Comments (2)

 

Road Trip: Greg's Meats

Filed under: Road Trip

Recently, I was driving south on Highway 52, just south of the split with Highway 56 at Hampton, when I came across this mundane looking building:

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I looked at my watch. A stop might make me late to my final destination. But "champion sausage"? I pulled into the parking lot.

Inside, Greg's was a solid meatstravaganza: shelves and cases of bologna, bacon, beef sticks, ham, brats, steaks, ground beef, and a million kinds of sausage. I learned that the Greg behind Greg's, Greg Endres, has been processing local meats and wild game for 30 years, with help from several family members. A number of his products have won awards from the American Cured Meat Championships, including the national grand champion summer sausage and beef jerky that I picked out.

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Both were classic renditions: good texture, just enough salty sweetness to make them addictive--I can see why Endres was inducted into the Cured Meats National Hall of Fame last year. All in all, a worthwhile stop. I just wish I'd brought a cooler.

**If you'd like to stay up to date on the latest food news, sign up for our free weekly e-newsletter, "The Hot Dish." Just click here to sign up.

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 23, 2008 9:37 AM | Comments (8)

 

First Look: Cafe Agri

Filed under: Restaurants

A recent dinner at Kingfield's Cafe Agri revealed an ambitious new place that still has yet to work a few kinks out of the system. In lieu of review -- frankly, I emerged from the meal profoundly confused, and unable to compose anything as organized as a 500-word column -- a few general thoughts about one of the most interesting and frustrating new restaurants to open in quite some time.

Cafe Agri, in a nutshell, is one of them thar organic gluten-free vegan vegetarian locavore sustainable raw food restaurants — except for the trout, although I guess Wisconsin may be close enough to count as "local," and I suppose trout is more or less free of gluten. It's the brainchild of Dan Alvin, who served as executive chef for Ecopolitan and Intelligent Nutrients, and it puts a big emphasis on removing meat from the center of your meal.

In a nutshell, Agri's menu is every rural right-wing hunter's idea of where urban left-wingers eat, except, again, for the trout. If you have an uncle from Grand Forks who you would like to annoy, take him to Cafe Agri. He will scowl at the menu for a good long time, and ask questions like: "What the hell is 'tamari?'" and "What, is gluten poisonous now or something?" and "Doesn't any of these have any meat in them? Can I just get a burger? Does the organic veggie burger just mean it has vegetables on it? Can I ask them to hold the vegetables?"

Before I dig any deeper, a quick note: I've cooked with and enjoyed tofu and tempeh at home. Mock duck is one of my preferred Asian dive restaurant proteins, and I'm a big fan of buying from local farmers whenever humanly (and economically) possible. So if the tenor of this post is perceived as critical, at least know that it's not because I'm a 1950s-era suit-wearing carnivore. Or an easily riled burger-craving uncle.

But I'll give you the punch line to the meal right now:

Immediately after dining at Cafe Agri, my wife and I went home and ordered a pizza.

My wife's trout filet was nicely, if austerely prepared (Agri is anti-sauce, which likely smacks too much of bourgeois pleasure and butter, if the two ideas can even be separated) — but it was miniscule. Kudos for demonstrating that you can plate a tiny portion of food rather than a massive, American fast-food feast... but, there is that whole "food=fuel" problem to be wrestled with.

My hazelnut asparagus and maple-glazed tofu was quite tasty; the balsamic maple glaze was subtle and engaging without being overly sweet, and the hazelnut bits loaned quite a bit of crunch and interest to the asparagus. The entire entree — the TWELVE DOLLAR ENTREE — contained three small squares of tofu, perhaps two inches by two inches by half an inch deep.

Do you know how much tofu you can buy for twelve dollars? Enough bloody tofu for a number of satisfying meals, thank you very much.

Here again, I feel the unpleasant need to discuss my own personal situation. I am not a big eater. When dining out, it's not at all unusual for half my meal to follow me home in a box — sometimes, it's two thirds of a meal. As a writer, I burn far fewer calories than I'd like, and it doesn't take much to feed me.

But, and I swear to God on this, after splitting an appetizer and finishing an entree at Cafe Agri, I was hungrier than when I started the meal. Some of this may be because the meal service took nearly two hours. Some of this may have been because I had to deal with my wife complaining about the two teaspoons of chard* that came with her trout. (Sample dialogue: "Chard is basically free. FREE! Why can't I have more chard?") But honestly, and in Cafe Agri's favor, a lot of it had to do with the fact that the food was good, stimulating, creative and in such scarce supply.

Another dish worth talking about: the beet ribbon salad. A big beautiful pile of raw beet, brazil nuts, mint and walnuts, and some dates -- love the dates. Yes, it was nine dollars, and that would give some people pause for thought. But the dish was nicely executed, creative, and stimulating, if insubstantial. A great appetizer, in other words.

But in its rush to be creative and principled -- more on that in a second -- Cafe Agri neglects a few critical aspects of dining: One, actually feeding people. Two, knowing your mission. Agri's goal seems to be attaching as many adjectives (dairy-free, gluten-free, seasonal, local, raw, heirloom, organic) to as many menu items as possible, but there isn't really one holy guiding aesthetic to the menu. For example: Why was there a kiwi slice sitting on top of the organic rice accompanying the maple-glazed tofu? Try Googling "Minnesota kiwi farm" sometime. Sure, it was probably (possibly?) an organic kiwi, and it's not made of meat.

Seriously: What's the mission...? Serving sustainable food? Assisting people with dietary problems? Providing delicious food? Providing enough food? Offering a good value? Helping people eat locally? These are not all the same thing, and can / do often come into direct conflict. "Pissing off Uncle Ron" seems to be the closest thing Agri has to a concrete gameplan.

Undoubtedly, the heart of Cafe Agri is in the right place, and they're struggling to make a restaurant that is as much of an antithesis to, say, Denny's, as is humanly possible. But doing the opposite of evil isn't always good. Mouse-sized portions, a menu breathless with its own righteousness and dairy-free, gluten-free mac and cheese — which may be delicious, but I will hate, yes, hate on general principle — may well alienate more folks than will be won over by the creativity, high quality of ingredients and good intentions of the chef and staff.

Make no doubt: Minneapolis needs more restaurants like Cafe Agri — restaurants ready to take risks, introduce diners to new ingredients and new ideas, and stand up for a set of ultimately admirable ideals, no matter how broad or poorly defined they may be. But — and hell, what do I know about the business of restaurants, in all seriousness — Agri may want to both broaden and more sharply define its appeal, up its portion sizes and maybe — just maybe — throw visiting omnivores a free-range organic chicken bone or two on the menu.

*Described on the menu as "wilted greens." May or may not have been chard. Doesn't change the serving size or my wife's palpable fury at the portion size.


Posted by James Norton at June 22, 2008 11:34 PM | Comments (9)

 

I can't believe it's not paint thinner: Night Train Express

Filed under: I Can't Believe It's Not Paint Thinner

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Night Train Express is a controversial wine. Marketed mostly to homeless people, the clinically depressed, and college students, this fortified wine has often been called out amongst civic leaders for promoting public intoxication and vagrancy.

Originally produced by Ernest & Julio Gallo, they quietly cut any association with the product years ago. We can only assume that Night Train production is now either handled by Satan, or someone’s raging alcoholic uncle.

Jessica Armbruster: I first came across Night Train at Big Top Liquors in St. Paul. I was purchasing a flask of MD 20/20. The cashier recommended I try Night Train. That bottle sat in my kitchen for three months before one of my roommates poured it down the sink.

Ben Palosaari: (unscrewing the lid, taking a sniff) Oh my god!

JA: This is going to go well with the Pop Rocks and glazed doughnut in my stomach right now. And my office already smells like cough syrup.

BP: This tastes like rubbing alcohol and grape soda.

Andrea Myers: This tastes like college.

Ward Rubrecht: It’s good, I don’t mind it at all.

JA: That’s because you love artificial grape flavor. My chest is burning.

WR: How much alcohol is in this?

BP: 17.5%.

WR: That’s kinda weak.

Nate Patrin: For a batting average, maybe.

BP: This reminds me of Grape Bubble Tape. Remember that stuff? Also, it’s funny how much slower we’re drinking this compared to MD 20/20.

JA: How much did this cost?

BP: $4.99.

WR: Wow, that’s expensive for hobo wine! It’s the champagne of the shame aisle in the liquor store.

Mike Kooiman enters, takes a sip

MK: What the fuck is this?

JA: I’m pretty sure it’s Oxy–acne pads, rubbing alcohol, and grape soda.

WR: It’s cleaning product and grape soda.

MK: I wish my cleaning products tasted this good! You know what this tastes like? If you went to some dive bar on the iron range, and asked for a Cosmopolitan, this is what they would serve you.

BP: The label is classy too. It says: I like locomotives and alcohol.

WR: It says it’s fortified! That means it has Vitamin C.

(Bradley Campbell enters, takes a swig)

BC: Smooth!

Entire Room: I don’t think we’re drinking the same thing.

Posted by Jessica Armbruster at June 20, 2008 6:18 PM | Comments (0)

 

Drink of the Week: Prairie Organic Vodka

Filed under: Drink of the Week

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Prairie Organic Vodka

Phillips Distilling, a fifth generation Minnesota family company known for making 'bottom shelf' liquor (wikipedia's word, not mine), has recently expanded into more upscale markets with its popular UV flavored vodkas and Union whiskeys. Phillips latest introduction is Prairie Organic Vodka, a corn-based spirit produced in partnership between Phillips and the farmers' distillers co-op in Benson, MN, which also makes Shaker's vodka.

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Though vodka is supposed to be "tasteless" by definition, I did a quick comparison between the Prairie and some leftover party booze and found the newcomer beat out Smirnoff 21 (winner of a New York Times blind taste test in 2005) and Stolichnaya in terms of flavor.

While the Stoli and the Smirnoff had harsh notes of rubbing alcohol and musty basement, the Praire had a lighter, more floral flavor that was slightly buttery, with a hint of vanilla. The Prairie still had a lot of heat when swallowed, but it was definitely the smoothest of the three--something even a non-vodka drinker could consider sipping on the rocks.

If you'd prefer a mixed drink, the Prairie Organic website has a few simple cocktail recipes, including this one:

Prairietini
Pour Prairie Organic Vodka into a shaker over ice and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with three olives

Available at several local liquor stores. (On sale at Edina Liquor 750 ML for $21.99)

If you'd like to stay up to date on the latest food news, sign up for our free weekly e-newsletter, "The Hot Dish." Just click here to sign up.

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 20, 2008 9:05 AM | Comments (7)

 

The (Overlooked) Beers of Summer: Mothership Wit and St. Bernardus Witbier

Filed under: Brews, Etc.

Despite growing up in Wisconsin, one of the nation's undisputed brewing epicenters, I didn't learn to love beer until a visit to Boston near the end of my undergraduate years. Through a series of trivial circumstances, I wound up at an MIT house party designed as a tour of some of New England's best craft brews.

My palate softened up by the previous week's worth of drinking Point that I'd consumed for lack of any better pizza-aiding beverage, I was perfectly poised to jump from "beer tolerator" to "beer lover." The beer in question was Allagash White, a Maine interpretation of a Belgian wheat ale. Cloudy and spicy, the stuff blew my mind grapes. It was as though a switch had been flipped. "I like beer now," I remember telling someone. It just happened.

It's a major point in favor of Mothership Wit, the organic wheat beer manufactured by Colorado's New Belgium Brewing, that it takes me right back to that house party. The corriander and orange peel flavors practically bust out of the bottle.

Jason Alvey, proprietor of The Four Firkins, put Belgian wheat beers into the context of neighboring Germany's famous beer purity law of 1516. For better or worse, German brewers were essentially making beer with one hand tied behind their backs.

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"Meanwhile, next door, the Belgians were going crazy!" says Alvey. "They were throwing in orange, coriander, candy sugar, whatever they could get their bloody hands on — it was almost as though they were mocking the Germans, going: 'Oh yeah, you can't do that? Well look what we can do!'"

The result was a Belgian twist on the Hefeweizen with spicy and orange notes that just ring out. The power of a well-made Wit is such that it should be served as is, or not at all.

"Blue Moon is a Wit," says Alvey. "If you go to a bar and your Blue Moon comes out with a slice of orange on it — throw it out, and tell the waitress not to do that. It completely overpowers all the fruity esters and citrus notes that were in the beer to begin with. I'm sure most of the brewers, if they saw that happen, they'd have a heart attack. They don't brew their beer so that you can chuck a slice of orange in it."

Mothership Wit is pretty clean-scrubbed and bright-eyed; Belgian counterpart St. Bernardus Witbier is comparatively brooding and complex. While many of the basics are the same (coriander, orange, wheat-clouded but light-colored), the St. Bernardus feels like a mouthful of flavor — supporting notes ricochet off of your palate and make for a more intense, yeasty, sipping (rather than inhaling) experience.

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What's got into that cat? A spunky defiance of the Reinheitsgebot, that's what.

Posted by James Norton at June 19, 2008 1:46 AM | Comments (0)

 

Sign Up for City Pages' Free Food Newsletter

Filed under: Food

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To a food lover, the next best thing to eating good food is reading about it. That's why you should sign up for City Pages' new food newsletter, "The Hot Dish." It's absolutely free, and it arrives in your email every week, full of delectable tidbits from City Pages' food writers, who will keep you up to date on the latest food news, including:

--restaurant and bar specials and discounts
--new hot spots opening around town
--upcoming food events and festivals
--the best posts from Twin Cities food blogs
--great date-night recommendations
--and much more.

Try it--you'll like it. Just click here to sign up. It takes less than a minute, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

"The Hot Dish"--it's the tastiest newsletter in town.

Posted by Matt Smith at June 18, 2008 1:46 PM | Comments (0)

 

Taste of Summer: Red Cherry Fro-Yo

Filed under: Food

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It was only a matter of time before the low-cal frozen yogurt that stormed the coasts made its way to Minnesota. What's surprising is that it's brought to us by Leeann Chin, a quick-serve restaurant chain best known for its cream cheese wontons and lemon chicken.


I've tried both the uberpopular Pinkberry and Red Mango frozen yogurts and thought they were both fine, but not worth the hype, so I was curious to see how Red Cherry would compare. Leeann Chin's COO told the Downtown Journal that frozen yogurt sales have accounted for a whopping 10 percent of sales at a new restaurant in the City Center skyway, so it seems to be selling well. But judging from the lack of lines forming outside the Hennepin Avenue Leeann Chin in the weeks since Red Cherry was introduced, it doesn't seem to be causing a frenzy.

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The yogurt comes in plain, raspberry, and swirl and may be topped with all sorts of fruits, candies, and cereals. The plain yogurt tastes a little like cheesecake--hints of sour cream and lemon but not too sweet--and the raspberry, well, like raspberry yogurt. I found it interesting that the yogurt, toppings, and even the name were nearly identical to its bi-coastal competitors, but perhaps that was the point. When I asked one of the employees how Red Cherry compared to Pinkberry and Red Mango, he said, "I think we pretty much copied their recipes."

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 18, 2008 10:09 AM | Comments (2)

 

Make it a date: Chef Shack

Filed under: Make it a date

A few things to do near the Mississippi riverfront when you visit Chef Shack at the Mill City Farmers Market...

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1. Get arty at the Soap Factory
Take a short walk across the Stone Arch Bridge and stop in at the Soap Factory art gallery. The historic wood and brick warehouse (former home of the National Purity Soap Co.) could be an exhibit in and of itself, but currently there are two shows on display by contemporary artists, "MEANDER" and "Roger, Roger." The gallery is open on Saturdays from 12 to 5.

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2. Visit the Mill City Museum
My experience at the Mill City Museum wasn't quite as dynamic as this video, but it's still worth a visit to learn more about the city's milling history, particularly via the film narrated by local humorist Kevin Kling. The museum is open Saturdays from 10 to 5 and also sponsors walking tours of the riverfront at 11 a.m. (reservations required)

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3. Park It
Grab your food and climb up the hill in Gold Medal Park, for a view of the river. Aferword, explore the Mill Ruins Park or boat watch at the Upper St. Anthony Falls Lock & Dam.

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Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 17, 2008 5:00 PM | Comments (2)

 

St. Paul Salut: The Preview

Filed under: Restaurants

If the average night at the new St. Paul Salut Bar Americain is anything like the preview they ran this past Friday, we're all in for a glorious run. The Grand Avenue incarnation of the French-themed eatery offers a battery of entertaining house drinks, a sprawling 100+ person patio area, and — if the preview service was representative — the usual Parasole mix of reliable veteran servers.

Packed to the gills with Parasole chain employees, friends, and miscellaneous fortunate hangers-on, the restaurant hummed with a festive energy that, in a nutshell, sets joints such as Salut, Chino Latino and even the more upscale Manny's Steak House apart from many of their competitors.

Offerings were indistinguishable from the Edina location of Salut, but this isn't a bad thing; when you've got a formula that works, there's no shame in duplicating it for a new crowd.

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Salut brings in diners for the steak and/or fries, but there's also some incredibly comforting and delicious seafood going on. The Friday special bouillabaise (seafood stew) was chock-a-block with goodies — among other items, the forkably thick entree contained a crab leg, clams, squid, cod, and shrimp. The flavors were nicely melded without trampling of any of the individual aspects of the stew.

A jumbo shrimp cocktail proved to be a personal highlight. One can't typically order shrimp cocktail without feeling like a sucker — the seafood is inevitably low quality, and the cocktail sauce dumped from some 50-pound food-service plastic sack. Salut does it right; not only is the shrimp almost buttery in flavor and delicate (not rubbery!) in texture, the sauce has far more bite and flavor than the red-colored ketchup-y pap we've been trained to accept. All that... and dry ice. A chamber underneath the sauce bowl issues forth an inexplicably captivating fog, a nice visual metaphor for the goofily bubbly energy that defined Salut's pre-opening weekend.

Salut St. Paul opened its doors to the public yesterday evening, so if you're closer to Grand Avenue's Milton Mall than you are to Edina, it's worth a visit.

Posted by James Norton at June 17, 2008 1:40 AM | Comments (3)

 

Where to buy the mysterious mangosteen

Filed under: Food

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A few years ago, while traveling in Thailand, I discovered the world's greatest living fruit--the mangosteen. It was the only thing delicious enough to make me forget the infernal heat and the hordes of dorky American men parading around with their local, decades-younger "girlfriends."

Upon returning stateside, I learned that I'd never seen a mangosteen because they were banned from import into the US for fear of pests. That all changed a few months ago, when the USDA allowed irradiated mangosteens into the country--and recently they started showing up locally.

I first saw them being sold in $20 bags (about 8 fruits) by produce vendors at the International Marketplace in St. Paul, but was hesitant to spring for a bunch if I was uncertain of their quality. When I learned they were being sold individually at Cub Foods stores, I raced out and bought one.

The racquetball-size fruit have a tough, purple shell, and slicing one open (use a serrated knife--the shell is quite leathery) reveals a cluster of whitish segments that look something like those of a clementine, with small seeds inside. And the taste? It's tough to describe: it's sweet, tart, and a little creamy, like the juciest peach you've ever had that's been crossed with a lychee and a loquat.

After plunking down $2.49 (!), I brought the mangosteen home and cut it open to find this:

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Ewww!

They yellowish slime and fear of unknown tropical diseases couldn't prevent me from sampling a few of the sections. (If there's no Dish column next week, you'll know what wasn't a good decision...) It tasted as good as I remembered, though I can't say the two bites were necessarily worth the price. The next day, I went back to Cub, showed a produce employee the photo, and he urged me to try another one. Another $2.49 later, I cut the second one open to find it in worse shape--the yellowish slime contaminated every segment and a couple were soft and brown.

I called the produce department and the man I talked to admitted he wasn't very familiar with the mangosteens, since they were so new, and wasn't sure if the slime was okay. When I said maybe I'd just come and get another one, he told me they were all sold out right now--customers cleaned out 20+ of them since I was in on Friday? "Yeah, everybody thinks they're the latest 'live forever' thing," he remarked.

**Update: I was hesitant to buy at the Asian markets because I only saw mangosteen sold by the bag, and not individually. But after my experience at Cub, I paid $14.50 for a bag of 9 fruits at Shuang Hur on Nicollet, and found the fruit to be in perfect condition and quite delicious.

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 16, 2008 9:04 AM | Comments (11)

 

Aloo Gobi: Definitely not a Star Wars character

Filed under: Recipes

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Aloo gobi is a classic Indian dish. It's incredibly tasty, spicy, super impressive to dinner guests, and incredibly easy to make. Here's how.

Ingredients:

Alright, due to technical difficulties I don’t have an establishing shot. But here’s what you’re going to need:

An onion
Fresh or jarred ginger
One hot pepper, any kind
Olive oil
2 cloves of minced garlic (I use the kind in a jar)
Garam marsala
Cumin
Cayenne pepper (skip it if you're scared of hot food)
Tumeric
Salt
Veggie or chicken stock
A large potato
Half a medium–sized head of cauliflower
Cilantro
Peas or edamame

I’m talking about onion, homeskillet

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Chop up your onion, grate about a tablespoon of ginger, mince your two cloves of garlic (or scoop out about two tablespoons), and chop up your hot pepper. Be sure to remove the pepper seeds if spicy food freaks you out. Heat up your pan with some olive oil. Sauté everything up, stirring occasionally until the onions are translucent.

Back to the cutting board

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Meanwhile, cube your potato. Break up the cauliflower into bite–appropriate chunks.

Time to spice things up

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Add a tsp of garam marsala, 1/2 tsp of salt, 1/4 tsp of tumeric, 1/4 tsp of cayenne. Mix it up, stirring constantly to coat things and to minimize anything sticking to the pan.

Spices: An aside

So, garam marsala. It’s more or less the Cajun spice mix or Italian seasoning of the Indian cooking world. I don’t know that I have ever seen it prepackaged in the stores, but I suspect you can find it. If not, why not make your own? You can keep it in a little Tupperware jar and have it available year round. There’s a bunch of recipes for it out there, but here’s what I normally do:

2 tablespoons of cumin, coriander, and black pepper
1 teaspoon or ground cardamom or cinnamon, and powdered ginger
A dash of allspice

Tada! Congratulations, you made your very own spice!

Potatoes: Not just the main ingredient of vodka

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Add half a cup of broth, and the potato. Stir things around to make sure everything is doused with spice. Cover the pan and wait 8-10 minutes, stirring a couple times.

Cauliflower

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Add your cauliflower. Stir and cover for another 8-10 minutes. Side note: If you are using frozen peas, now would be the time to add them as well. Once the potatoes are tender add a handful of chopped fresh cilantro, and about half a can of peas (or some fresh edamame if you're being fancy). Let things simmer and work its mojo for about 5 more minutes.

Fin

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Here’s a pic of the final product. This is dish that just gets better each day you let it sit in the fridge, though it’s yummy on the first day as well. Rice or bread make great additions, and I suggest pairing aloo gobi with a nice, light beer like Sapporo, Summit, or even Red Stripe.

Posted by Jessica Armbruster at June 14, 2008 1:18 PM | Comments (0)

 

I Can't Believe It's Not Paint Thinner Vol. 1

Filed under: I Can't Believe It's Not Paint Thinner

Welcome to I Can't Believe It's Not Paint Thinner, a new blog City Pages blog series. Each week the CP staff will put its livers on the line to review the shadiest, strangest, and cheapest alcoholic beverages available.

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This week, we're crowding into A-List Editor Jessica Armbruster's office to taste a standard of the 'fortified wine' category, MD 20/20 Orange Jubilee. 'Fortified Wine,' as it's commonly referred to, is a wine-like drink (although some sources claim it's not really wine) with alcohol added to it. This stuff is 13% alcohol by volume, and has been chilling in the fridge all day, in accordance with the label's directions to 'serve cold'. The bottle cost $3.25. Let the gagging begin.

Mike Kooiman: it's like when you open the fridge and you know the OJ is kinda old, and you try it and it's too old. Then you go, 'Oooooh.'

Jeff Guntzel: Not only is this good, this is mad, dog!

Nate Patrin: It's not so much a screwdriver as much as it is a butter knife.

Jessica Armbruster: It reminds me of when I was unemployed. I've had the other flavors. This is the best. The first thing I ever got drunk on was tang and vodka.

JG: Pour this on my grave when I pass.

JA: This is nothing compared to Night Train.

JG: there are times that I have not felt worth 3.25. this is actually quite pleasant.

Ben Palosaari: I think it's in a glass bottle because it would dissolve a plastic one.

NP: This is a war atrocity.
JA: You're so melodramatic.

NP: You'd think it would at least numb my toothache.
Ward Rubrecht: You just haven't had enough.

WR: As much as I don't want to drink this, I want even less to get sick off this.
JA: I've actually never vomited this stuff.
MK: This goes in the column of things Jessica has never vomited from.


(Matt Snyders enters and takes a pull from bottle): This is gross.
Takes swig of diet mt dew. Another swig of MD 20/20: I have a feature I gotta write. I want to finish this stuff just to spite the fucking bottle.
JG: You're the clean up hitter.

MS kills the bottle:
Horrible. Horrible.

JA: Don't drink this while pregnant, it will deform your baby. You'll have a Bratz Doll.

Come back next week for another daring review of horrible liquor in I Can't Believe It's Not Paint Thinner.

Posted by Ben Palosaari at June 13, 2008 6:01 PM | Comments (3)

 

Next Food Network Star: Is Nipa on thin ice?

Filed under: Food

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On last week's episode, hometown girl Nipa Bhatt lost her cool and walked out of an evaluation. Find out this Sunday at 9:00 p.m. if she can redeem herself with a secret ingredient...the potato!

Learn more about Nipa
Catch up on last week's episode


Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 13, 2008 4:09 PM | Comments (2)

 

Drink of the Week: Vanilla Bean Martini

Filed under: Drink of the Week

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Vanilla Bean Martini
al Vento
Vanilla-infused Stoli vodka; coffee liqueur
$10

Deep in the softly-lit recesses of al Vento's elegant dining room, I huddle over the drink menu, eyes scanning for the perfect concoction. It's between 4 and 6 p.m., I think. Martinis are half off--so a martini it shall be. Just then, gaze falls upon this dark-hearted beauty, subtly sweet and beautifully mixed. I will make it mine.

"But wait," you might say. "Is this tonic at all unusual, now that anyone with a bar-tending license can slap together vodka and Kool-Aid in a conical glass and call it a martini?" I beg you consider, skeptical friend, my retort.

al Vento's magicians of mix, not content to put cheaply flavored liquor to the lips of their customers, have hand-infused their Stoli with the warm touch of vanilla bean. The results are astonishing. Instead of the roiling sea of saccharine we've come to expect from the fruit-tini crowd, vanilla and coffee flavors frolic together in a fresh spring of vodka, a light dusting of sweet coffee powder around the rim eliminating any bitterness. Welcome back, Flavored Martini. You're lookin' good.

Posted by Ward Rubrecht at June 13, 2008 7:05 AM | Comments (1)

 

The (Overlooked) Beers of Summer: Czechvar

Filed under: Brews, Etc.

A productive interview with Jason Alvey (proprietor of The Four Firkins in St. Louis Park) has led to the creation of a running feature here on the TC Eater: Profiles of lesser-known but extremely crisp and delicious summer beers.

Our first featured brew is Czechvar, known in its home country of the Czech Republic as Budweiser Budvar Czech Premium Lager. The "Budweiser" name, for obvious reasons, didn't go over well with American copyright authorities, so we're left with the somewhat less snappy but geographically instructive "Czechvar" label.

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Naturally, it leaves its American counterpart in the dust. US macrobrews rely upon adjuncts (usually corn or rice) to give beer fermentable sugar without imparting the full, rich flavor of barley. "If you look at a bottle of Czechvar, it's an example of Pilsner brewed in the old style, there's no adjuncts in there," says Alvey. "It's very light, very crisp and very refreshing, yet it's going to have more flavor than your standard domestic." Indeed: In place of the insipid taste of a macrobrew, there's actually a tangy kick to this stuff that gives it a bit of gravity.

Also worth noting: If good beer is a priority for your summer, stop by The Four Firkins grand opening this Saturday (June 14th). Brau Bros. samples from 2-5pm; Summit, Schell's, Flat Earth and Surly samples starting at 6pm. The amazing Pedal Pub turns up around 7pm.

And on Monday, June 16: Local beer author / demigod Doug Hoverson ("The Land of Amber Waters") is appearing at the Ritz Theater in Northeast Minneapolis for a live taping of Flak Radio. The fun starts at 6:30pm, and admission is free.

Posted by James Norton at June 12, 2008 12:08 AM | Comments (1)

 

Make it a Date: Obento-Ya

Filed under: Make it a date

If you're not familiar with the University neighborhood, here are a few things to do near Obento-Ya, besides toss a Frisbee at Van Cleve Park:

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1. Tour the I-35 bridge Construction

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Saturdays at 11 a.m., MNDOT hosts free Sidewalk Superintendent Talks to view the construction progress (the main span is already 20% complete) and answer questions. Tours meet at the corner of Washington and 19th Avenues (in front of Grandma's Saloon).


2. Have a Cocktail at Intelligent Nutrients

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Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher's corporate h.q. on East Hennepin boasts an arty blue bar in the back that serves up organic cocktails with all sorts of intriguing herbal infusions lined up in a row of glass bottles. The place is usuallly sparsely populated, (I don't think I know anyone else who's actually ever been there) which makes it better for a quiet conversation than a see-and-be-scene, and it has a fabulous pink powder room for ladies to primp.


3. Sing Karaoke at Sporty's

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Formerly known as Sportsman's Pub, (I'm not a big fan of the name change, personally) this student-thronged dive bar lets amature singers take the stage Thursday through Saturday 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., and let's just say it ain't pretty--but at least they have cheap tap beers. They also have pool and darts if you're more a sportsman than musician.

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 10, 2008 5:20 PM | Comments (3)

 

James Beard Awards Redux

The James Beard Foundation livened up its restaurants awards ceremony at Lincoln Center last night with emcee Kim Cattrall (Sex and the City's Samantha) jingling across the stage in a sparkly gold dress that showed nearly as much skin as the sushi scene in her new movie. Cattrall shared the honors with Food Network star Bobby Flay, and the ceremonies were one big parade of food-biz celebs, including Thomas Keller, Rick Bayless, Tom Colicchio, Danny Meyer, and more.

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The big national winners were Chef of the Year Grant Achatz (pictured above--his name rhymes with “rackets," if you want to discuss this at the water cooler) the creative force behind Alinea in Chicago who recently survived stage IV tongue cancer and was the subject of this New Yorker profile. The Award for Outstanding Restaurant (with a decade or more in the business) went to Gramercy Tavern in New York City and Best New Restaurant to Central Michel Richard in Washington, DC.

Though Minneapolis was represented in the Best Chef Midwest category by Isaac Becker of 112 Eatery, Tim McKee of La Belle Vie and Alex Roberts of Restaurant Alma, Adam Siegel of Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro in Milwaukee was named the winner. While it was great to see three nominees in our category, I'm afraid it may have split the votes from Twin Cities judges, leaving Siegel to garner more votes due to his restaurant's proximity to Chicago-area judges.

St. Paul's own Splendid Table won the Radio Food Show category, so kudos host Lynne Rossetto Kasper, managing producer Sally Swift, and the rest of the American Public Media staff.

For me, the best part of the event was seeing people I've talked to on the phone (David Wondrich, whose new tome about pioneering bartender Jerry Thomas won the wine and spirits book category) or whose restaurants I've enjoyed (Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson were as cute as their Tartine Bakery in San Francisco, and brought their infant up to accept their Best Pastry Chef award) and learning more about the work of Humanitarian Award Winner Frances Moore Lappé, who wrote Diet for a Small Planet, and Lifetime Achievement Award winner Fritz Maytag, owner of Anchor Brewing Company in San Francisco (they make Anchor Steam) and Maytag blue cheese in Iowa.

Though ticket prices are steep, the awards are open to the public, and while the ceremony itself can drone on a bit, the reception afterword is a great chance to sample foods from notable restaurants around the country (my two faves: a highbrow meatloaf from Paul Newman's Dressing Room restaurant and strawberry sorbet with candied mint leaves and rose petals from Alice Waters' Chez Panisse) and have the chance to talk with chefs whose work you admire.

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 9, 2008 2:03 PM | Comments (2)

 

Free beer Fridays: Sam Adams Longshot Grape Pale Ale

Filed under: Product Review

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Another Friday, another six pack of free beer sits in my office. This time, Sam Adams has bestowed an intriguing concoction: Longshot Grape Pale Ale.

I have to admit, my officemates and I were a little wary. Would it be a "longshot" that we would enjoy it? Would it taste like a weird combo of grape soda and beer? In small quantities I have enjoyed beers with fruity undertones, though some walk a fine line, as if the brew couldn’t decide whether it was a wine cooler or a Miller Lite. What follows is a transcript of our sampling of Sam Adams Longshot Grape Ale.

Ward Rubrecht: Aw, this doesn’t even taste like grape.

Ben Palosaari: No, it tastes like Welch’s Grape Juice that has been left in the sun.

Jeff Severns Guntzel: I do taste the grape. It’s like while I was at the restroom some kid dropped a lollipop in my beer.

Jessica Armbruster: I barely taste the grape, but I’m impressed. It’s a decent beer. They went the subtle route as opposed to some sort of Puckers plus beer merger.

JSG: I am interested in the fact that they sweetened it with maple syrup. That’s classy.

BP: No, if I were in a restaurant, I would send this back.

WR: I’m not bothered by it. I wouldn’t throw it out, as evidenced by the fact that I haven’t yet.

BP: It could have been worse. At least it’s not raisin beer: “Two scoops!”

(Nate Patrin enters the room)

NP: If you hadn’t actually told me there was grape in this, I wouldn’t have noticed.

BP: So, here’s a question: Suddenly everyone in the world has died. Yet you live on. What is the first alcoholic beverage you would drink?

JA: Maybe some classy tequila. Or a black ‘n’ tan.

JSG: Frankly, I’d probably weep.

NP: I would go for the most expensive vodka I could find. Then I’d go for the most expensive orange juice. I would then make the most expensive screwdiver. Ever.

Posted by Jessica Armbruster at June 6, 2008 5:52 PM | Comments (1)

 

Drink of the Week: Prince Albert

Filed under: Drink of the Week

Prince Albert
La Belle Vie
Earl Grey-infused gin, tonic, and a lemon
$11.00

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With its blue-blood sensibilities, this elegant cocktail is more likely to call to mind Queen Victoria's husband or a Saskatchewan city than any unfortunate associations with male genital piercing. La Belle Vie bartender Johnny Michaels, one of the top cocktail craftsmen in town, ingeniously infuses the gin for this drink with Earl Grey tea, such that hints of bergamot orange marry with juniper to give the drink an aroma of aristocracy that's far more sophisticated than the typical g&t. If $11 seems steep for a drink, know that Michaels pours 'em strong: If you're a buck seventy five, it'll give a good buzz; a buck and a quarter, you'd better surrender the keys.

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 6, 2008 5:35 AM | Comments (1)

 

Balsamic Vinegar on Ice Cream

Filed under: Food

While visiting Madison last weekend, I managed to stumble into Vom Fass, the German oil, vinegar, grappa, rum and Scotch store where everything is available in sample form. More US franchises are on the way, and if God truly loves us, He'll park one of those puppies in Minneapolis or St. Paul.

The most vivid sample turned out to be a mango balsamic vinegar that screamed its mango force onto my palette with the intensity of an enraged Bobby Knight.

Clearly, this stuff was going to be clutch in the kitchen. Marinades, salads... mango to the nth power was in the offing.

As it turns out, splashing flavored balsamic vinegar on vanilla ice cream may be the best move of all. The acidic spike of the vinegar and the assertive presence of the allied flavor work wonders when pitted against the laid-back sweetness of the ice cream. The ice cream is a canvas; the flavored balsamic is neon-bright paint. A little scoop (using a hemispherical measuring spoon) and a splash team up to make a great post-dinner refresher.

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It's hard to go wrong in terms of the balsamic you use; although I'm partial to fruit flavored vinegars, even wine-style balsamics can be used to assemble a wicked simple and elegant summer dessert.

Posted by James Norton at June 5, 2008 11:36 AM | Comments (3)

 

Diners, Drive-ins and Dives Filming at BLB Tomorrow

Filed under: Events

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Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, Food Network's examination of the nation's quirky eateries, will be filming with host Guy Fieri from noon- 5 p.m. with free beer, cocktails, and food. Plus, you might finally get to make a withdrawal from your 15 minutes of fame while you scarf down a Pulled Pastures a Plenty Pork sandwich or toss back a white Russian.

Posted by Ben Palosaari at June 4, 2008 2:17 PM | Comments (4)

 

Make It a Date: Sauced

Filed under: Restaurants

1. Get Arty
Across the street from Sauced, the Warren is a gallery/performance space that exhibits the work of neighborhood photographers, painters, and sculptors, and more. Workhouse Theater, a community theater group based in Camden often performs at the Warren. They just finished a run of ‘Night Mother by Marsha Norman and have performed everything from No Exit by Jean Paul Satre to Scenes from a Christmas Carol by Valerie Borey and Charles Dickens. Tickets are usually priced around $10. Check their website for upcoming shows.

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2. Take a Stroll
Walk along the wide, tree-lined, 3-mile-long parkway, Victory Memorial Drive. The boulevard was designed to recognize the lives of local men who served in World War I, with 568 elm trees planted to comemorate the soldiers from Hennepin County who gave their lives. The paved path wraps around to the north and west of Sauced and it's conducive for bike-riding, stroller-pushing, and hand-holding.

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3. Dessert To-Go
Walk down to 42nd and Thomas and stop in at Papa's Pizza and Pasta. Papa's recently opened a takeout deli and now serves a rotating assortment eight different kinds of Italian gelato.

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Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 3, 2008 6:00 PM | Comments (1)

 

Special Drinks of the Week: the Clinton Concession edition

Filed under: Drink of the Week

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Tonight, Twin Cities denizens, we have a front seat at living history -- and who wants to face history sober? Not you, not me, and probably not Hillary Clinton either.

If the reports are correct, Clinton will concede that Barack Obama has won enough delegates to secure the nomination. His speech tonight in St. Paul will serve as notice of victory. If you're like us (and God help you if you are), you'll want to be awash in liquid refreshment for this moment. Here are five cocktails to get the fuse of democracy lit inside you.

5. The Clinton Concession: Angostura Bitters, sour mix, Southern Comfort, and Red Bull. Garnish with hazelnuts and lots of ice.

Besides the obvious reasons for including bitters, Trinidadians use water and the Angostura variety to cure an upset stomach. Hillary herself might do well with that folk remedy tonight. The nuts are, of course, for Bill. Southern Comfort is in memory of Clinton's "southern strategy" of appealing to white folks. Red Bull is so she may retain energy to campaign on regardless. Which foreshadows the last drink ...

4. The Clinton Long Island Ice Tea
1 part tequila
1 part rum
1 part gin
1 part triple sec
1 1/2 parts sweet and sour mix
1 splash Coca-Cola®

In honor of Clinton returning to her job as senator from New York. A regular Long Island Ice Tea is usually also made with vodka, but this recipe comes up one ingredient short.

3. The Clintonini
1-1/2 oz vodka
1 oz. Sour Grape Kool-Aid

On a night like this, Hills will need a stiff drink. Terry McAuliffe has noted that she can really knock 'em back, and she'll need a no-chaser number like this one. As for the Kool-Aid, she's been drinking it this far -- why stop now? Sour Grape flavor for effect.

2. The Faux Congratulation: Alexis Bailly Ice Wine, garnished with James Carville's tears.

This is what Hillary may use to toast the Democratic nominee. Ice wine is sweet and appropriate for a "cheers," but is also forged in cold. The Carville tears are rare and expensive, but worth every penny.

1. The Fight On: Absinthe (complete with wormwood) chased with Irish coffee.

In case the reports are erroneous and Hillary chooses to stay the course, she'll need absinthe -- the real stuff, with the hallucinogenic ingredient -- and all the caffeine and booze a body can handle. Bottoms up!

Posted by Jeff Shaw at June 3, 2008 11:26 AM | Comments (3)

 

Straight Talk About Chicken Wings

Filed under: Restaurants

While driving around St. Paul yesterday, a restaurant awning caught my eye: "Cora's Best Chicken Wings." "Best" was underlined. Normally this kind of gastronomic smacktalk would be merely intriguing, but coming hard on the heels of a column wherein I'd proclaimed Chelly's chicken wings the best in the Twin Cities, it was seriously disconcerting. What if Cora's wings were better?

Two wings cost a mere $1.82, a good price, if nothing else. But the result was lackluster. The sticky, burnt-caramel, Chinese-restaurant tasting glaze was relatively yummy, but it concealed the somewhat dried out and mediocre chicken flesh that most wings are built upon. These wings were not the "best." They were merely OK.

Happenstance (i.e. a sudden desire to browse Ax-Man Surplus) then brought me to JJ Fish & Chicken at 1647 University Ave. in St. Paul.

The wings from Fish & Chicken had a dry, almost sandy breading, but they were fried to order (and thus super hot) and relatively tender. The meat was moist, and the hot sauce that came with the wings had a nice, serious burn to it without being purely abusive. All in all: a contest with Chelly's, but a contest that Chelly's wins. It's hard not to favor Chelly's spice-laden breading, and its luxurious quality of chicken.

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There are, undoubtedly, more wings out there to be tried, but for now... Chelly's stays atop the mountain, proud and victorious.

Posted by James Norton at June 3, 2008 10:33 AM | Comments (4)

 

Food Events This Week

Filed under: Events , Events

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Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Taste of the Nation's fundraiser for Share Our Strength, an organization dedicated to ending childhood hunger, takes place at 6:30 p.m. at the Chambers Hotel. Chefs from several noteworthy Twin Cities restaurants--Asher Miller of 20.21 Restaurant, Hector Ruiz of Café Ena, Indio, and El Meson, Sameh Wadi of Saffron, Rick Kimmes of Oceanaire, and more--will join Chambers chef Michael Agan in serving apps and cocktails. Cost is $38 per person and 100% of proceeds go towards fighting hunger.

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Thursday, June 5
Bremer Bank is hosting a cookoff to benefit Second Harvest Heartland from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. at Seventh Street Park Place (between Wabasha and St. Peter) in downtown St. Paul.

Four cooking teams--made up of a motley crew that includes Russell Klein, chef at Meritage, Jason DeRusha of WCCO, and the St. Paul Saints pig mascot, Mudonna--will compete to create a nutritious dinner made of products typically found at a food shelf. How well Mudonna manages to slice and dice with hooves instead of hands remains to be seen...

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Sunday, June 8
Slow Food Minnesota features chef Seth Bixby Daugherty (formerly of Cosmos) will be talking about serving good food in schools at a potluck picnic from 4:30 to 8 p.m. at Hidden Falls Park in Saint Paul

Bixby Daugherty and his wife, Karen, recently formed an organization called Real Food Initiatives to raise awareness about food issues in schools. Slow Food will provide meat and veggie burgers to grill after the discussion and asks guests to submit recipes for the dishes they bring for a new Slow Food Minnesota cookbook (they're looking for dishes made with traditional methods and local ingredients--not the sort of place where one wants to show up with a liter of Diet Coke and a box of Twinkies). Cost is $5 for members, $10 for non-members and due to limited accommodations, reservations are required and may be made online at
www.slowfoodmn.org or by mail (with check) to Barbara Horter, 14137 Whiterock Road, Burnsville, MN 55337.

Posted by Rachel Hutton at June 2, 2008 12:01 AM | Comments (0)

 

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