Food Fight: Cocina Latina vs. Guayaquil tacos

Categories: Food Fight

Karen Apricot New Orleans/Flickr
Maybe it's not fair to judge two Latin American restaurants -- both with an emphasis on Ecuadorean food -- on the merits of their tacos, a distinctly Mexican dish. But if you consider tacos kind of the Latin American version of the hamburger -- ubiquitious, with many suitable, delicious interpretations, it sort of makes sense. (Many, if not most, Latin American restaurants also serve burgers actually.) It's kind of like how if a place can eke out a decent burger, you sort of feel better about everything there. Tacos, like burgers, are a kind of bellwether. So, in the name of, ahem, judiciousness, we bring you Food Fight: tacos.

Beef tacos from Cocina Latina.
Cocina Latina has taken up shop at the former home of Tacos Blass on the corner of 38th and Nicollet. The space is clean, the menu expansive, and man, the dramatic music videos on the bigscreens, with their plaintive, keening lyrics and choreographed dance moves courtesy of bikini-clad women and dudes in faux-silk, are alone worth the trip. The restaurant's $6.99 tacos are in true Mexican style, arriving with three soft, doubled up corn tortillas filled with small bits of charred beef topped with onions and cilantro. Simple, no fuss. Could have used one or two more limes on the side, and had to ask for the salsa -- thin but tasty, and orange sherbet colored -- but once things were in order, they were definitely in order.

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