Caribe Caribbean Bistro's jerk chicken sandwich

Teddy Hobbins

Caribe's Jerk Chicken Sandwich

​I always scratch my head whenever someone asks if I've got a recommendation for a good Caribbean restaurant. In fact, I struggle to think of one beyond Singh's. The lack of island options is the exact reason why I jumped all over the chance to get to Caribe Caribbean Bistro soon after it opened in the former Jay's Café spot off University in St. Paul.

I've got two real rules when it comes to eating and drinking: If someone buys me a shot, I'll drink it, and if I see jerk chicken on the menu, I'll order it. Both rules have provided great pleasure and great pain, though the pain of bad jerk chicken usually ends with the last bite while the shot aftermath could carry on well into the next day.

Caribe's jerk chicken sandwich ($9) falls squarely in the pleasure category. In fact, it was likely the most properly cooked piece of chicken I've had on a sandwich in years. The chunks of chicken were not only generous but moist. The heat of the grill provided just the right amount of char to lock in the flavors of a just about perfect amount of seasoning. I think that's where most places get it wrong--they leave on so much marinade or rub that it just burns and leaves you with carbon and not the intricacies of allspice, clove, and maybe a hint of cinnamon. The bird had a tiny bit of heat too, but not the sudden rush of heat you'd expect from the traditional scotch bonnets. The sandwich is served on soft but serviceable Cuban bread with charred red onion that gives just a little sweet kick to accent the flavors.

Sandwich Rating: Tasty. As you can tell, I appreciate a good jerk chicken, and though this wasn't the best or most authentic (I doubt any pimento wood was involved) I've had, it's pretty darn good for this market. Patience is advised, though, as Caribe is clearly still working out the service kinks a new restaurant typically encounters.

Epic Sandwich copyright 2010 by Teddy Hobbins