Adam Vickerman of Cafe Levain: Chef Chat

Photo courtesy Adam Vickerman

​After some time away, chef Adam Vickerman has returned to where he started his professional culinary career in 2004, the kitchen at Cafe Levain. While other boys were perhaps dreaming of fire trucks or sports stardom, young Vickerman knew he wanted to be a chef when he grew up.  And grown up his flavors are, eschewing fads or molecular trickery, he uses the best seasonal ingredients and does as little as possible with them, respecting the pieces to create a comforting, elegant whole.

In between his planning, cooking, and writing for the restaurant's blog, we met with him to find out what he has in store for the spring season, what can be learned from working at an Arby's, and who he crushes on.

What was the first thing you learned to cook?

Boneless, skinless chicken breast with Lawry's seasoned salt. You've got to start somewhere.

I come from a big meat and potatoes family, very Midwestern. Lots of mid-well to well-done steaks and burgers, casseroles, and cheese bakes. When I go home, my favorite is still my mom's spaghetti and meatballs with store-bought sauce. It's all still very nostalgic. 

What was your first job in the food industry?
Arby's, when I was 15. I started at Levain in 2004. People laugh at the Arby's thing, but it was one of the cleanest kitchens I've ever worked in. It was a good experience to learn about cleanliness and organization. I already had the itch to cook before that, when I was in middle school.

When did you know that you wanted to cook professionally?
Cooking at home and Home Ec in school. People questioned it, but I knew that I wanted to [be a chef].  It just got bigger and bigger until I finally graduated high school and started culinary school.

Levain was your first professional experience before moving on to open Tosca and work at Sea Change.  What brought you back?
At Sea Change I wasn't really cooking. I'm only 25 and felt like leaving the cooking behind I was missing the rush and excitement of working the line.

Harvey [McLain, owner of Cafe Levain] has been a saint. I missed the people. When I left and went to Tosca I felt like we had left some things unfinished. In May my sous chef is returning. He's learned a lot at Haute Dish. I'm really looking forward to cooking together here again.

How would you describe your cooking style?
Letting the ingredients stand on their own. I love simple food done well. Roast chicken is the ultimate pleasure food. That's my favorite thing on the menu. People take great comfort in that. Eighty percent of good cooking is getting great ingredients, and the other 20 percent is not totally screwing it up.

How's the garden planning going?
There's a giant plot out back that we're just waiting to utilize. That's our next step is getting involved in urban gardening. 

You've done some blogging for Stewart Woodman's blog and at the Cafe Levain website. Is that something you're interested in doing more of?
I love that kind of stuff. It's just a matter of finding the time to sit down and just do it. I really enjoy writing. It's fun to help bridge that gap, open the lines of communication. That's why I started a Twitter account. We'll be doing deli food and sandwiches using quality ingredients for takeout. That's where I'll eventually be sending out that information.

On the restaurant bio it says you're happy to return to your "lovely crew of misfits."  Who would you say is the loveliest?
Remle is a very lovely man. (laughs) We do call him the Old Codger--he's 32.  Yes, Remle Colestock is a very attractive man.  Luckily, he also has a very nice girlfriend who shares him with me.  Soon I'll probably be seeing more of him than she will, once he's back in the kitchen. You can totally put that in there that I have a man-crush on Remle.

What ingredient are you most looking forward to for spring?
Ramps, morels, but mostly just the lightness of spring food.  It's not a bunch of butter or braising.  Grilling, fresh greens.  Personally, I lost 70 pounds over the winter months, and it's harder to eat healthfully during those months.  I haven't been this light since I was in middle school.

Holy wow! Congratulations.  Do you have any tips?
I wasn't strictly a vegetarian, but less meat, more vegetables, olive oil instead of butter.  Good food, straightforward, and I stayed within my recommended calorie range. 

I'm looking forward to all the new foods coming back in.  That's the great thing about being in Minnesota, that we really have four seasons.  In August I'll be craving butternut squash and brown butter again.  Right now I want green, fresh, and grilled food.

Last year I was in a bad place.  I'm just incredibly lucky, and I'm really excited about all of the new beginnings.