As a countdown to the Best of the Twin Cities 2013, coming April 17, the Hot Dish is serving up 50 of our favorite local dishes.
|Pork and glaze together at last in Icehouse's savory eclair|
We've seen this kind of decadent, sweet and savory, meat 'n' dessert combo before. In fact, it's been a big trend this year, producing everything from chicken-and-waffles-flavored potato chips
to bacon syrup
to bacon doughnuts
. But the opposites-attract concept has never been pushed to delicious extremes quite like it is in the savory eclair at Icehouse.
The word eclair translates roughly to "flash of lightning," which is an apt description for how quickly these brunch-time beauties will disappear from your plate. The reasonable portion keeps the ridiculously rich dish from going too over the top, but just to be safe, consider getting one to share.
Tucked inside the hand-piped, puffy pastry are textures and flavors usually more at home in a hoagie bun or biscuit, but the eclair makes a sweeter, more elegant place for them. Chewy maple-glazed pork belly is dressed with creamy and sharp cheddar cheese sauce and stuffed between the top and bottom slices of the sugary bun. It's like the best, most morning-appropriate cheddarwurst you've ever had.
The whole thing is served with an over-easy fried egg and goes down best with one of Icehouse's brunch cocktails. Try something a little sour, a little bitter, and a little bubbly to offset all the richness of the eclair. We recommend the Chesty LaRue -- a Greyhound (vodka and grapefruit juice) kicked up with a little Campari and some sparkling cava.
2528 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis, MN