Emily's Lebanese Deli vs. Zakia Deli: Spinach pie showdown
Amy Dahlin Zakia's spinach pie
One Saturday last autumn in the parking lot of the Maronite church on University Avenue in Minneapolis, we had a transcendant Lebanese sandwich: grilled bread stuffed with meaty eggplant, crispy onions, and tart and flavorful za'atar (a mixture of dried oregano, wild thyme, dried sumac, and sesame seeds) topped with yogurt sauce. Last Saturday, after spotting a few flyers for an upcoming Lebanese dinner event, we were once again reminded of the glories of this country's cuisine. This time, we wanted to try some spinach pie and tabouli salad.
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Amy Dahlin Emily's tabouli salad
Emily's Lebanese Deli is one crackling fireplace, one chipped plate, and one overheard sibling squabble away from being a pop-up restaurant set inside a Lebanese family's living room. Nestled amid the businesses and warehouses on Stinson Avenue in Minneapolis, Zakia Deli's small, coolly professional dining area is just as friendly but much more sleek.
Emily's has been a Northeast fixture for nearly four decades; it's also one of the many Twin Cities restaurants that has been featured on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives. Emily's friendly staff and focused menu would shame lesser and less delicious Middle Eastern eat shops. Zakia Deli is no slouch, though. It has only been around since 2007, but in its comparatively brief existence it has earned kudos from a variety of publications, including City Pages.
Round 1: The dough
Spinach pies look like edible folded flags. When they're made properly, the many layers, folds, creases, and pinches in each pie ought to reveal the care of the hands that shaped them. While Emily's dough is sturdy and crisp, its blandness is a bit of a shock. Zakia's dough is more buttery, tender, and flavorful. But this dough has a weakness: Its delicate structure might not keep the spinach securely in place when you try to take a bite. In spite of this constant threat of a stained shirt, round one goes to Zakia.