Brut pop-up offers a look at one of the most anticipated Twin Cities restaurants

Categories: Sneak Peek

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Hannah Sayle

Last week, Epicurious named Gavin Kaysen's Merchant one of the most anticipated fall restaurant openings in the country. Small wonder, as the return of this Minnesota native and former executive chef at the Michelin-starred Cafe Boulud in New York represents a pretty big win for the Minneapolis food scene.

But as far as anticipated restaurant openings of 2015 go (yeah, we're looking that far ahead), we've got our sights set on Brut, the collaboration of two James Beard-nominated chefs and lovebirds, Jamie Malone (formerly of Sea Change) and Erik Anderson (formerly of the Catbird Seat in Nashville, and Sea Change before that). They don't yet have a space lined up for their venture, but they're hosting pop-up dinners at the now closed Lynn on Bryant to hone their concept and tease us all with a taste of what's to come.

See also:
Jamie Malone is out at Sea Change with a new venture on the way

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Hannah Sayle

If you ever had the pleasure of visiting Sea Change when Jamie Malone was at the helm, you'll recognize the artful plating and playful sophistication in Brut's menu. The five-course pop-up menu ($50, $75 with wine and coffee pairings) began with the "scallop cooked and raw," a briny dehydrated scallop cracker topped with a sweet raw scallop, onion, dill, and pepper.

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Hannah Sayle

Next up: the beef tartare, a tableau of colors, textures, and flavors, from the translucent discs of tart onion to the sweet rounds of beet to the creamy egg emulsion. The beef itself was mild and soft, offset by shavings of horseradish and pops of salty whitefish roe.

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Hannah Sayle

The roast monkfish was buttery and mild, paired with a bright, acidic cabbage to cut the richness, as well as a spicy nasturtium leaf, a cidre-braised mussel, and a walnut brown butter mayonnaise that we now want to put on everything and/or eat by the spoonful. Is it considered gauche to eat mayonnaise by the spoonful? Wait to try this before you answer.

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Hannah Sayle

The cheese course celebrated the best that Normandy has to offer: An oozy, Calvados-washed Camembert came served atop a flaky tartlet made with the juice from sauerkraut, then dressed with grilled onions, thyme, and chestnut honey. If you've been paying attention, you'll note that this pop-up offered decidedly fall-flavored dishes, which is no mistake, as Malone and Anderson were busy working out their ideas for a fall 2015 menu.

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Hannah Sayle

A burnt sugar and rosemary pudding topped off the evening, with the complex sweet, buttery, and herbal flavors of the pudding buried underneath bits of decadent buttered pecans, crumbled sable (another Normandy nod, along with the cidre-braised mussel from the monkfish -- are we sensing a pattern here?), and a mild buttermilk ice cream. That dessert was followed up in short order by a sea salt chocolate cookie, which is not pictured because it did not last long enough for a glamour shot.

The pop-ups will likely continue as Malone and Anderson build momentum. To stay posted on upcoming pop-ups, follow @brutmn on Twitter. Should you attend one, it's entirely likely your menu will be different from the one described above (such is the experimental nature of pop-up menus), but to be a part of Brut's development, with two extremely talented chefs riffing off one another, is an enticement all its own.

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18 comments
vinotintojoe
vinotintojoe

We went last week. It was very good. That was one of the best tartare's i have ever had. They lost me on the camembert course, but i cant stand sauerkraut so it is a matter of personal preference, not the quality of the food.

trevorbrossart
trevorbrossart

I ment lj20 is an idiot not you Eric and Jamie, I love you guys .... thanks for coming to my tasting dinner =)


lj20
lj20

The description and photos are unappealing to me. It lacks a certain balance and I can only imagine overpowering the true flavor of the original ingredients, however, I'll hold final judgement until I try for myself. The following questions came to mind: What is the white blob on the scallop and why on earth would you dehydrate one? Next: What looks like raw egg-- no thank you. What's all the white shit and where's the actual tartare hiding? Moving on: "walnut brown butter mayonnaise"? It looks awful in the picture. Just give me some goddam monkfish and skip your pickled cabbage, nasturtium and mussel. How is anyone going to taste the fish with a mouthful of that?

Mark Witte
Mark Witte

I will pass. Food like this does nothing for me. Give me a cheese burger and fries.

Jake Wood
Jake Wood

This is sick. The hipsterization going on with some food types is disgusting. (State fair = GREAT example of this). Everyone is all "HMMM IS THERE A WAY I CAN INJECT THIS SHIT INTO MY VEINS AS QUICK AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE MERICA DURRRR" I'm moving to England... where food stayed proper and traditional.... America, you've been warned.

trevorbrossart
trevorbrossart

@lj20  just so you know its ignorance like this comment that has kept this kind of cuisine out of Minneapolis for this long. Serious examine the pictures further and you can see the true art in these dishes, and as for hiding true flavors of ingredients, it is all basic preparations and technique. Its simple. Nothing here is complex. Ignorance is bliss dude. You even said it in your comment "I'll hold final judgement until I try for myself" however you berate each picture like you were there trying it. The plating was modern and elegant unlike 90 percent of the other restaurants in this city who plate like its the fucking 80's. I for one like many others are excited for this place together Eric and Jamie, as well as Kaysen will change the culinary trend of this city for the better and im excited to see what is to come in the future.  

trevorbrossart
trevorbrossart

@lj20  just so you know its ignorance like this comment that has kept this kind of cuisine out of Minneapolis for this long. Serious examine the pictures further and you can see the true art in these dishes, and as for hiding true flavors of ingredients, it is all basic preparations and technique. Its simple. Nothing here is complex. Ignorance is bliss dude. You even said it in your comment "I'll hold final judgement until I try for myself" however you berate each picture like you were there trying it. The plating was modern and elegant unlike 90 percent of the other restaurants in this city who plate like its the fucking 80's. I for one like many others are excited for this place together Eric and Jamie, as well as Kaysen will change the culinary trend of this city for the better and im excited to see what is to come in the future.  

neutralica
neutralica

more reservations available for the rest of us

lj20
lj20

@trevorbrossart @lj20  I respect good food, travel for it, wait in line for it, but these photos are not flattering. You don't have to agree but you do have to respect my opinion even if it differs from your own.

neutralica
neutralica

@lj20


don't judge a dish on photos moron


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